Garden Pest Control

Even if you’re starting later than planned, the right lighting setup can make all the difference. With a grow light, you can still grow strong, healthy plants and enjoy a productive season ahead.

Here’s why starting nematode treatments now can be highly effective and why these pre-season applications are among the most important. Understanding the Lifecycle of Slugs and Nematodes Slugs are notorious for their ability to thrive in moist, cool conditions. Slug eggs laid in our mild winter will be hatching now, beginning their march to grow in numbers.  Let's stop them becoming a significant problem come the spring. Nematodes, specifically like those contained in Nemaslug and Slugtech, are microscopic, parasitic worms that target and kill slugs. They are applied to the soil where they seek out slugs and enter their bodies, releasing bacteria that ultimately kill the host within a few days. The nematodes then reproduce inside the dead slug, continuing the cycle and providing ongoing pest control.   You can use nematodes when soil is above 5°C for most of the day, you can find your soil temperature forecast here. Buy nematodes now. Why early treatments are critical Targeting Juvenile Slugs: Juvenile slugs are more susceptible to nematode infection than their adult counterparts. By applying nematodes early, you can significantly reduce the number of young slugs that survive into adulthood and reproduce. This proactive approach helps break the lifecycle of slugs, leading to fewer slugs. Ideal Environmental Conditions: Nematodes thrive in moist conditions that are often met in late summer (or a wet summer) and early autumn. Applying nematodes during this period ensures they remain active and effective, as they require moisture to move through the soil and find their slug hosts. Sustainable and Eco-friendly Solution: Using nematodes is an environmentally friendly method of pest control that avoids the use of chemical pesticides, which can harm beneficial insects and soil health. Nematodes specifically target slugs, making them a safe option for organic gardeners and those looking to maintain a balanced ecosystem in their gardens.  It also means they are 100% safe around pets and children who can play on and around treated areas immediately.  How to Apply Nematodes Effectively Timing: Apply nematodes in the early morning or late evening to avoid the heat of the day, which can dry out the soil and reduce nematode efficacy. Ensure the soil is moist before application and water the area thoroughly afterward to help the nematodes move through the soil. Maintenance: Maintain moist soil conditions for at least two weeks after application to ensure nematodes remain active and effective. Reapply every 6 weeks.  So, don’t wait —take action now and give your garden the best chance to thrive slug-free. Shop slug nematodes

Insect netting is a great tool if you want to protect against pests like cabbage white butterflies, carrot flies, and aphids.  These guys spread in numbers quickly and pose a persistent challenge, insect netting can make all the difference. Here's a bit more about how and when to use insect netting effectively. Jump straight to the product Benefits of Insect Netting Pest Prevention: keeping out common pests, including caterpillars, aphids, and beetles like the dreaded lilly beetle. Encouraging Beneficial Insects: If you have bought some of my good bugs to help you with a pest problem, netting can keep them in place.  Many a customer has come to me upset because the ladybirds they released have ended up in their neighbour's garden.  Netting can help you to concentrate the predators where they are needed.  Protecting Pollinators: Don't cover all the good stuff up, use insect netting selectively to ensure that while pests are kept out, pollinators can still access flowering plants when needed. Weather Shield: Netting also provides a degree of protection from heavy rain, hail, and strong winds and light frosts. When to Deploy Insect Netting Timing is crucial to maximise the effectiveness of insect netting. Here are key tips for UK gardeners: Early Spring: As temperatures rise, pests become active. Deploy netting over vulnerable crops like brassicas, carrots, lettuce and more, as soon as you sow seeds or transplant seedlings. Throughout the Growing Season: Keep the netting in place during the peak pest activity months (April to September). Be vigilant about inspecting for any pests that may have slipped through gaps. Pollination Windows: For crops that require pollination (e.g., courgettes or strawberries), remove the netting temporarily during flowering. This allows pollinators access to the plants. How to Use Insect Netting Secure Edges: Ensure the edges of the netting are tightly secured to the ground using pegs, weights, or buried edges to prevent pests from crawling underneath. Support Structures: Use hoops or frames to keep the netting elevated and prevent it from resting on the plants. This reduces the risk of pests laying eggs through the mesh, sneaky beasts! Regular Inspections: Check regularly for tears, holes, or insects trapped inside the netting. Repair any damage promptly to maintain effectiveness. When to Remove Insect Netting End of Pest Season: In late autumn, when pest activity decreases, you can safely remove the netting. For most UK gardens, this is around October or November. Crop Harvest: Remove netting as you harvest crops to allow easier access and airflow. End-of-Season Cleanup: Clean and dry the netting before storing it for the winter. This prevents mould and extends its lifespan. Balancing Pest Control and Biodiversity While insect netting is highly effective, it’s essential to balance its use with maintaining biodiversity. Allowing some areas of your garden to remain uncovered can provide habitats for pollinators and other beneficial wildlife. Rotate netted and uncovered zones to create a thriving and balanced ecosystem. Buy Plastic Free Insect Netting Here

As summer begins to wane (did it ever show up in the first place?) and the first hints of autumn start to appear, many gardeners might think it's too late in the season to be using products to reduce pest populations. However, when it comes to using nematodes to reduce slug populations, the end of summer is actually a crucial time to act. Here’s why starting nematode treatments now can be highly effective and why these late-season applications are among the most important. Understanding the Lifecycle of Slugs and Nematodes Slugs are notorious for their ability to thrive in moist, cool conditions, making late summer (or a cool summer) and early autumn an ideal time for their proliferation. Slug eggs laid in late summer will hatch in the early autumn, leading to an increase in juvenile slugs that can either overwinter, or lay eggs that will overwinter, and become a significant problem in the following spring. Nematodes, specifically like those contained in Nemaslug and Slugtech, are microscopic, parasitic worms that target and kill slugs. They are applied to the soil where they seek out slugs and enter their bodies, releasing bacteria that ultimately kill the host within a few days. The nematodes then reproduce inside the dead slug, continuing the cycle and providing ongoing pest control. Buy nematodes now. Why Late Summer Treatments Are Critical Targeting Juvenile Slugs: Juvenile slugs are more susceptible to nematode infection than their adult counterparts. By applying nematodes at the end of summer, you can significantly reduce the number of young slugs that survive into adulthood and reproduce. This proactive approach helps break the lifecycle of slugs, leading to fewer slugs in the next season. Ideal Environmental Conditions: Nematodes thrive in moist, warm soils, conditions that are often met in late summer (or a wet summer) and early autumn. Applying nematodes during this period ensures they remain active and effective, as they require moisture to move through the soil and find their slug hosts. Reducing Overwintering Populations: Slugs that survive into late autumn will lay eggs that overwinter and hatch in the spring. By reducing the slug population now, you decrease the number of eggs laid, effectively reducing next year’s slug problem before it starts. Sustainable and Eco-friendly Solution: Using nematodes is an environmentally friendly method of pest control that avoids the use of chemical pesticides, which can harm beneficial insects and soil health. Nematodes specifically target slugs, making them a safe option for organic gardeners and those looking to maintain a balanced ecosystem in their gardens.  It also means they are 100% safe around pets and children who can play on and around treated areas immediately.  How to Apply Nematodes Effectively Timing: Apply nematodes in the early morning or late evening to avoid the heat of the day, which can dry out the soil and reduce nematode efficacy. Ensure the soil is moist before application and water the area thoroughly afterward to help the nematodes move through the soil. Maintenance: Maintain moist soil conditions for at least two weeks after application to ensure nematodes remain active and effective. Reapply every 6 weeks.  Conclusion Starting nematode treatments at the end of summer is not only timely but also crucial for reducing slug populations effectively. By targeting juvenile slugs and preventing overwintering, late-season nematode applications can significantly impact the slug population in your garden, leading to healthier plants and a more enjoyable gardening experience. So, don’t wait until next spring—take action now and give your garden the best chance to thrive slug-free. Shop slug nematodes

How do you know if you have fungus gnats? Your plant or seedlings may tell you, you may see stunted growth yellowing leaves or the roots may look damaged (if you can see them).  These are all signs of fungus gnat larvae being in the soil.  Most commonly though people tend to notice the adult flies.  Lots of people put the influx of flies down to fruit flies until they notice them congregating around their plants and seed trays. What do fungus gnats look like? They do look very similar to fruit flies but their wings have a creamy translucent look and their bodies are thinner, below are a few images of the adult fungus gnat but remember fungus gnats are very small.  Fungus gnats do not tend to fly around, they will only hang around the plants.   Fungus gnat larvae live in the soil and eat the root material.  They look like thin white maggots.  Fungus gnat flies lay eggs which hatch into larvae, see images below.   How to get rid of fungus gnats. We recommend a combination of 2 products; nematodes and sticky traps.  The traps that we recommend are yellow sticky traps, the adult fungus gnats are attracted to the colour and get stuck. The nematodes come in a mixed species pack to ensure maximum effect.  They are watered on.  The nematodes are a parasite of the fungus gnat larvae and tend to kill them within 7-10 days. Why nematodes and traps work for getting rid of fungus gnats The approach has to be two pronged for it to work, you need to attack both the adult flies and the larvae to be able to break the lifecycle.  You need traps for the adults (so they stop laying eggs) and parasitic nematodes for the larvae (to stop them becoming adults).  If you do one without the other you will not break the lifecycle and control the fungus gnat infestation. And you can get both for £15! Fungus Gnats – Frequently asked questions Will I need a second treatment? It depends on 2 things, how bad the infestation is/was and what stage in the lifecycle the majority of the fungus gnat population is/was.  This solution relies on controlling the adults and the larvae, if there were very large numbers of either one then a second go might be needed.  Another reason would be lots of fungus gnat eggs, there isn’t a control for the eggs so you may need to treat again 2 weeks later to control these hatched eggs. Why mixed species nematodes? This product contains a blend of different species of nematode, this is perfect for controlling these fly larvae. What if I only have a couple of affected plants? You can still use the solution above, just make the nematodes more concentrate and split it amongst your plants.   Want to get on and get rid of fungus gnats really really effectively?  For £15 (including First Class delivery) you can!     Get both products now

All of the pests that we encounter in the UK are native to Northern Europe and can survive our winters.  They have a winter state, often eggs, that then hatch out in the spring. So reducing the number of pests right now is super important, even if there aren't any plants that need saving. Plants still suffering from pests If you have plants that are still suffering from either aphids (greenfly/blackfly), spider mite, thrips among others you should be doing your best to reduce the pest numbers right down.  A great product for this is lacewing larvae as they will prey on a number of pests.   Pots & canes Instead of stacking the used pots and canes in a corner, give them a wash in soapy water and wrap them up ready for use.  They both provide great places for pests such as aphids to lay eggs.   Sweeping & tidying Clear dead plants from beds & sweep up fallen leaves.  If you don't have a compost area try and make space away from your beds to keep the leaves etc.  It's great to make homes for insects over the winter...just not where you plant to grow things in the future.   Greenhouses & cold frames Before you fill the greenhouse, polytunnel or cold frame with plants from the garden (or new seedlings) have a really good clean.  Not only will you get rid of some pests, cleaning the glass/plastic will allow more light in which is great for the plants.  Clean existing plants, benches and down all the cracks, horticultural soap is great for this.  If you have had a spider mite problem over the warmer months put some slow release sachets up now, they are active right down to 6°C. Soil based pests The likes of slugs, vine weevil and root pests will have been laying eggs for a few months now.  Slugs will be hatching out while the soil is still warm and vine weevil grubs will have started to feed.  Clean the soil out with beneficial nematodes to break the life cycle. Shop the clean up range

Vine Weevil can be a very destructive pest, the adults eat away at plant leaves and their young can eat whole root systems but what are the plants that they tend to go for? Are vine weevil a pot plant pest? Vine weevil can often be though of as a container pest as they seem to prefer plants in pots and containers.  Indeed you can often find them between a pot and container or under containers during the day (they are nocturnal). What plants do vine weevil prefer? Strawberries and Primulas along with begonia, heucheras and primula are firm favourites along with rhododendron, cyclamen and hydrangeas. They really aren't fussy but do prefer plants that have succulent leaves and stems. Do vine weevil eat houseplants? Yes, if they find their way indoors then they will eat houseplants. Plants that Vine Weevil dislike Vine weevil tend to avoid plants with furry leaves and those that are fragrant like mint, lavender etc. More about vine weevil and how to control them here Vine weevil products here Offers on vine weevil treatments here

Ants all over your plants? You may think they are there to eat the invasion of aphids (greenfly or blackfly) you have had but they are actually attracted by the honeydew the aphids produce when feeding.  Ants don't eat aphids. Ants protect aphids Ants (quite brutally) ward off natural predators of aphids.  If an aphid eater like a ladybird or lacewing tries to eat the aphids then the ants will mobiles to remove them.  Ants will lift off or crush the aphid predators before they have a chance to feed on the aphids so that the ants do not loose their food source. How to get rid of aphids when ants are present Ideally you would control the ants first.  We sell a type of nematode that you treat ant nests with.  It doesn't kill the ants but it moves they away from that nest.  You can also remove the ants physically with a blast of the hose.  Blasting the hose will remove some of the aphids too. Using a product like horticultural soap to reduce the aphid population will cause the ants to leave the plants too, as their food source (the honeydew) will no long be being produced. Aphid Predators that fair well against ants The wasps and midge that we sell for aphid control work well when you have lots of ants.  This is because they act quickly and to not spend lots of time on the plants.  More on all the aphid predators and controls here.  

Aphids are an incredibly fast spreading and damaging pest Aphids breed very very fast, aphids are born pregnant and can then produce up to 4 young per day.  They are sap suckers that feed on plant material and cause other problems like sooty mould and diseases. Your first line of defence It is a very good idea to have a bottle of Horticultural Soap in your cupboard.  As soon as you see aphids advancing give them a really good douse, keep this up daily while you decide which biologicals to use. Aphid predators Predators are beasts that eat aphids, the ones we supply are ladybirds (adults and larvae), lacewing larvae and aphid midge.  Which you choose can really come down to personal preference and budge, they will all do the job.  See the individual products for the temperature ranges that the predators prefer. Aphid parasites Parasitic wasps use aphids to reproduce, they lay an egg inside the aphid turning into a nursery for their young.  There are 2 main types of wasp; Colemani which prey on elliptical bodies aphids and Ervi that go for round bodied.  If you are not sure which you have you may be able to tell by the host plant or we sell a product with a mix of the two. If you still can't decide what to do just email plantcare@ladybirdplantcare.co.uk. Find out more about the different biological controls for aphids here

Vine weevil grubs do some serious damage below ground The larvae are grubs which feast on plant roots, often completely severing them from the upper stems. You may not notice you have vine weevil until the plant keels over.They have a soft creamy-white body, up to 1.5 cm long and brown heads. They often lie in a sort of "C" shape.  The damage caused by the adults is unsightly, but the grubs can cause the plant to die. When to treat vine weevil If you get the larvae under control early in the season then the adults shouldn't bother you too much (and won't lay so many eggs).  You can use nematodes that target vine weevil grubs from when the soil reaches 5°C.  A treatment early and late in the season is essential but it is advisable to treat around every 6 weeks. Customers LOVE Vine Weevil Nematodes"Always just right - Another 99% free year from those little horrors!""Ordered nematodes at the first sign of vine weevil and was pleased to receive them promptly as always. We've come to rely on this really effective treatment.""I have used Vine Weevil nematodes for several years to significantly reduce a large scale infestation." Save on vine weevil controls

What's a woolly aphid? They are a type of aphid (sap sucking insect) that are differentiated by other species by the waxy woolly coating on they backs.  They look like fluffy masses. What plants do woolly aphids attack and what damage do they do? Mostly commonly they go for apply trees and some evergreen shrubs.  They suck the sap from trunks and branches and can cause fungal diseases. Can predators be used for woolly aphids? Unfortunately there aren't any predators that can get past the waxy coating on the woolly aphid waxy outer layer. How can you get rid of woolly aphids then? I do have 2 products you can use, you can use the Horticultural soap or SB Plant Invigorator applied at two applications 2 days apart with the first application stripping down the waxy protective layer and the second targeting the pest directly. The time interval of 2 days apart is important as any longer than this and the wax has a chance to replenish. Shop the products here A healthy plant is less susceptible to pests Woolly aphids do not pose a threat to a healthy tree or shrub, make sure that the plant is well fed and watered, that it's in the right position and there is nothing else causing it stress and it should survive a few of these furry critters! if you need help with a pest problem and you're not sure what it is, here's a good place to start

Wireworms can spoil potato crops and you won't know about it until you harvest the crop.  What are wireworms? They are click beetle larvae, there are around 70 species of click beetle but only a very small number have larvae that feed on tubour.  Wireworms are yellow in color and are long and thin (up to approx 25mm) Is it wireworms or slug eating your potatoes? It is wireworms if the holes go all the way through.  Slugs will not do this but they will leave cavities in the surface.   When to treat for wireworm The larval stage of wireworm can last for up to 4 years so treatment is only reliant on the temperature of the soil. Wireworm control Studies by the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) have found that control with parasitic nematodes, either Heterorhabditis bacteriophora or the mix sold as Fruit & Veg nematodes, can work to reduce pest numbers. Microscopic beneficial nematodes (eel worms) are watered into the soil. They enter the larvae and poison them so that they will die within a few days. The soil needs to be above 10°C for the nematodes to survive so people tend to use them at harvest time when they find they have a problem or in the spring before the growing season starts. You can find more from the RHS on wireworms here - https://www.rhs.org.uk/biodiversity/wireworms Instructions for the use of nematodes The nematodes arrive in a paste. Mix them vigorously with water and apply to the soil following the instructions on the pack. The ground should be moist before the application and should be irrigated directly afterwards to wash the nematodes into the soil. It should be kept from drying out over the next 2 or 3 weeks, or the nematodes will dry out too. They do not harm any humans, birds or animals. Products we sell Heterorhabditis bacteriophora (the single species product) is sold in packs of 100 or 500 SQM for treating Chafer Grub and can be found here. You can also use the mixed species pack (Fruit and Veg Nematodes) which is available in a smaller pack size and is more cost effective, it can be found here.