Garden Pest Control

That wonderful childhood book The Very Hungry Caterpillar is no fairytale, caterpillars really are very hungry.  It is their sole purpose in life to eat and the sheer quantity of leaves, flowers, fruit and shoot that they consume can be too much for some plants to bear.  Caterpillars are the larvae of moths and butterflies.  They begin as eggs, if you see leaves that are webbed shut you will find the eggs inside. Many species are harmless and most can be tolerated in regular numbers.  It's when populations swell or when plants are struggling that they may need controlling. Here are some tips for reducing caterpillars naturally; A fine netting will stop moths and butterflies from laying eggs. Shop Plastic Free Insect Netting Here Watch out for closed up leaves and webbing, either pick off or open and clean leaves that have been used as 'nests'. Pick off and rehome caterpillars. Use gloves!! Use Fruit & Veg nematodes when you first spot caterpillars, follow the instructions carefully. Instructions for key species; General Caterpillars - Treat as soon as pest is seen and weekly until infestation clears then fortnightly to keep them away, soil temperature must be above 12°  Gooseberry Sawfly - Treat as soon as pest is seen and weekly until infestation clears then fortnightly to keep them away, soil temperature must be above 12°  Codling Moth & Oriental Fruit Moth - best treated September/October and when air temperatures are 14° to 30°  Box Tree Moth - Treat in Spring and mid summer,  3 applications 2 weeks apart at each treatment time For more information and to purchase click here

Seeing leaf damage? Let's have a look at what could be causing it.  If it's slugs or snails trails are a giveaway Whether its small holes or large scale devastation you can tell its one of these slimy critters if you see a silvery slime trail.   Thrips cause leaf, fruit and flower damage First you'll see the leaf surface turning a silver colour spotted with black spots indicating cell death.  Flowers may seem deformed with brown petals that may have ragged edges. Weak sticky plants from an aphid infestation Aphids suck the sap out of the leaves and stems of the host plants, weakening them and causing distortion to emerging flowers and leaves. Aphids make plants sticky and attract ants. Plant leaves resembling jigsaw pieces? Vine weevil could be said to be making jigsaws out of leaves, they eat notches from the edge of the leaf, their damage doesn't weaken the plant but their larvae can kill plants easily. Red Spider Mite spreads quickly. Leaf mottling is the first sign of this pest, the pattern differs from plant to plant.  The next stage is leaf loss and webbing.  Act fast to control it and stop them coming back. Huge swathes of plant material eaten away Caterpillars eat and eat and eat!  You may at first see leaves that haven't opened and are webbed shut, open them and clear off the eggs before these very hungry creatures hatch. Still not sure?  Get in touch plantcare@ladybirdplantcare.co.uk  

Bug killers are not all bad but lots are.  It all depends on how they work and how they are applied. Organic sprays like Soft Soap and ones approved for organic growing like SB Plant Invigorator are free of nasty chemicals that stay on the plant.  They are contact based insecticides, they gum up the breathing holes of the insects they are sprayed on. They are based on plant extracts, plant oils or other safe compounds and have to be sprayed directly on the to the pest that you are trying to control.  As such they will take more than one application over several days to remove all pests. Because you have to spray they directly on to the pest insect you can also be sure that you are not killing any beneficial insects like bees and ladybirds by first checking they are not on the plant.  If you spray in the evening they are less likely to be around. Sprays that promise prolonged protection after spraying are dangerous to bees and other beneficial insects.  The following pesticides (from by the Pesticide Action Network) contain neonicotinoids that are harmful to bees: Westland Plant Rescue Bug Killer; active ingredient Thiamethoxam Provado Vine Weevil Killer; active ingredient Thiacloprid Bug Clear Ultra Vine Weevil Killer; active ingredient Acetamiprid Bug Clear Gun!; active ingredient Acetamiprid Provado Ultimate Bug Killer Spray; active ingredient Thiacloprid Provado Ultimate Bug Killer Ready to Use; active ingredient Thiacloprid Provado Ultimate Bug Killer Concentrate; active ingredient Thiacloprid If you have recently used any insecticides you may need to wait 6 weeks before introducing the predators we sell on this site.  Please contact us if you need help on this. Switch to one of our contact insecticides now - Shop here For more on the above from Monty Don - here

  Whether you’re growing flowers to enjoy in the garden or to cut and bring indoors, the last thing you want is for them to be spoiled by pests  Growing in beautiful technicolour brings so much joy to the garden, whether you are growing flowers to enjoy outside or to bring inside to fill your vases, keeping a check on flower loving pests is all part of the process.   By growing flowers we are encouraging wildlife, especially pollinators, which is great.  Unfortunately you will also find there are some much more prolific beasts that will also be attracted to the garden.  Below are a few of the most common culprits and how to handle them without chemicals. Aphids Often known as green fly or blackfly, aphids numbers get out of control very quickly.  Their ability to reproduce is astounding, they are born pregnant!  Aphids are sap suckers, they feed on the plants leaving them wakened, ravished looking and sticky.  They can also spread plant diseases. A secondary problem of an aphid infestation is ants, ants love aphids because they feed on the honeydew that is created when the aphids feed on plants.  So you now have aphids and ants...what to do? Aphids are one of the most common and widespread garden pests, there are lots of commercially available natural predators.  The most well know and popular is the ladybird.  Ladybirds and their larvae devour huge quantities of aphids, prices start at £20, you can find them here.  Next up are the beautiful Lacewings, gorgeous green creatures with delicate translucent wings, their larvae are ferocious eaters and can consume 35 or more aphids each! There are other options too, tiny parasitic wasps and special aphid midge all do a wonderful job at controlling an aphid infestation. Thrips Next up is Thrips, another sap sucker causing flowers, fruit and foliage to be deformed, weakening the plant and eventually killing it. Thrips are tiny, very difficult to spot and often gardeners don’t know they have thrips until they start to notice brown petals once buds open and deformed, stunted fruit. Where possible, remove infested leaves, buds and stems because this will initially reduce numbers.  Thrips are very difficult to reach with chemical sprays; but predatory mites are small enough to find and eat them, making biological control (the process of introducing natural predators) the best answer to this problem. Get 10 free Thrips predator sachets. Vine Weevil If the colour in your garden comes from pots or border shrubs like Rhododendron then you need to know about vine weevil. Vine weevil are black beetles about 8mm long, narrower at the front than the back.  If you see bitten edges around the leaves of your plants, then suspect vine weevil. They are rarely seen in the daytime. The larvae are grubs which feast on plant roots, often completely severing them from the upper stems. They have a soft creamy-white body, up to 1.5 cm long and brown heads. They often lie in a sort of "C" shape.  The damage caused by the adults is unsightly, but the grubs can cause the plant to die.  Vine weevil are very easy to treat, these nematodes control the grubs and stop them from feeding on plant roots and these traps get rid of the adults.  Get 10% off Vine Weevil Controls. And not forgetting Slugs... More on slugs here, and if you are not sure which pest you have please get in touch via email plantcare@ladybirdplantcare.co.uk  

Growing Tomatoes? It is very satisfying but pests love tomato plants. Here are some top pests to watch out for;⁠ 🍅⁠ During the seedling stage - Fungus Gnats (Sciarid Fly)⁠🍅 Aphids when grown under glass or in a tunnel⁠🍅 Red Spider Mites - they love a hot environment, pruning helps massively⁠Prevention is better than cure and being clean and tidy really helps. If you had a pest last year it is very likely to come back this year so you could get your predators in place before you have a problem.⁠ Pest control for tomato plant loving pests Fungus Gnats, Sciarid Fly These are brownish in colour & 3-4mm long they crawl and slowly fly around, you may have mistaken them for fruit flies in the past. In their larval stage they are slim white maggots that can be up to 6mm long.  Fungus Gnats thrive in warm moist conditions where the larvae feast on the roots of your plants.  The best combination of treatments is Fruit and Veg nematodes and yellow sticky traps.  Get this failsafe combo for under £15 including delivery here. Aphids There are many types of aphid (often called greenfly or blackfly) but luckily you don't need to be able to identify them to be able to treat them.  At the first sign of aphids reach for Horticultural Soap and there are a range of awesome aphid eaters and predators, the most popular are ladybird larvae, starting at £20.  Find them all here. Red Spider Mite One of the main reasons that spider mites are a fan of tomato plants is that they are often kept in really warm conditions.  Spider mite love hot dry greenhouses so keep your plants well misted and open some vents.  At the first sign or spider mites you can introduce the Andersoni sachets.  You can use these as a preventative measure is spider mites have been a problem for you in the past. If you start to see webbing then the plants are infected and you need to go for the stronger control.  Find out more about spider mites and their treatments here. Whitefly Although not mentioned in the top 3 many growers would put whitefly up there.  Again this is partly due to the pests's love of greenhouses but they are quite common on tomato plants.  If you have whitefly you will notice small white moth like creatures that swarm into a cloud when disturbed.  Browse Whitefly Controls. Personally I find that the slugs eat all my tomatoes given half a chance, reduce slug numbers with Nemaslug. If you have any pest question that you can't find help with, just ask!  Email plantcare@ladybirdplantcare.co.uk  

Slugs, snails and slimy trails...Not what puppy dog dreams are made of By Dr Victoria Strong BSc (Hons) BVSc DVetMed AFHEA MRCVS Vet, Dr Vicky Strong explains why getting rid of these slimy suckers from your garden can not only help protect your plants, but your beloved pooch too. Are slugs poisonous to dogs? Slugs are not poisonous to dogs, but they do transmit lungworm. Lungworm infection can be fatal and so it is crucial to ensure your dog is protected. What is lungworm? Lungworm is the name given to a parasite called Angiostrongylus vasorum. Adult worms live in the heart and major blood vessels of dogs and foxes, where they can cause serious complications.   How are dogs infected with lungworm? Lungworm cannot be spread directly from dog to dog. Transmission requires something called an intermediate host, another living creature inside which the worms can grow and develop.  The larvae (immature forms) of lungworm are found in infected slugs, snails and even frogs. Dogs become infected by swallowing the larvae, if they lick or eat slugs or snails. Luckily, slugs and snails produce substances which mean they are not very tasty for dogs. Sadly though, this doesn’t put all dogs off! Sometimes though, the slugs are so small, the dog doesn’t even see them and might eat them accidentally. Besides, they can also become infected by the slug or snails’ slime by: Eating grass Drinking from contaminated puddles or water bowls Eating food that has been left outside Playing with a toy that has been crawled over by a slug Picking up contaminated stones or sticks in the garden or park  What happens when a dog is infected with lungworm? Once inside the dog, the larvae pass through the wall of the dog’s intestines. They spread through the body causing damage as they go. The adults then settle in the dog’s heart and the major vessel that carries blood from the heart to the lungs. Within just 4 weeks, the adult worms start to produce their own eggs. The eggs hatch into larvae, which the dog coughs up into its mouth and swallows. The microscopic larvae are passed out in the dog’s poo and ingested by slugs and snails, and the whole cycle starts again. The worms cause damage, inflammation and bleeding – not just in the heart and lungs, but in the liver, intestines, eyes and spinal cord too.  If left untreated, lungworm can be fatal. What are the signs of lungworm in dogs? The most obvious signs of lungworm in dogs include: Coughing Breathlessness, difficulty breathing Reluctance to exercise or play as normal Excessive bleeding or bruising  However, other signs can be much more subtle, and are easily missed or mistaken for other health problems. They include: Weight loss Lethargy, lack of energy Reduced appetite Vomiting and diarrhoea Seizures  I think my dog has lungworm – what should I do? If you think your dog might have lungworm, get them checked out by a vet. They will ask you some questions, examine your dog. If they suspect lungworm too, they might suggest they carry out some further tests but bear in mind, it can be a tricky disease to diagnose.    Can all dogs get lungworm? The simple answer is yes, they can. But lungworm mostly affects young dogs and puppies. Their cute but troublesome curious nature means younger dogs are most likely to eat slugs or snails, and to pick up toys or food they find in the garden.   Lungworm started out being a problem only in Southern areas of England and Wales, but over time, cases have spread. Dog owners all across the UK should be aware and take steps to protect their dog.  Can lungworm be treated? In mild cases, treatment using an anti-parasitic medication should do the job. It is quick and easy to administer and if caught early enough, the dog should make a full recovery. In advanced cases, the damage may be severe and your dog require much more intensive therapy. How can I stop my dog from getting lungworm? There are two main ways you can prevent lungworm in dogs: Regular worming with a product which is effective against the lungworm parasite (speak to your vet for more information). Prevent your dog from coming into contact with slugs, snails or their slime trails. Top tips: Don’t leave toys, bowls or chews out in the garden overnight Don’t let your dog drink from standing water in the garden Keep dogs away from slug-heavy areas such as flowerbeds, compost-heaps or piles of rotting leaves Try not to let your dog dig in the soil or eat grass Pick up your dog’s poop quickly to prevent the spread Reduce the number of slugs in your garden  Are slug pellets safe for dogs? Many products designed for killing slugs contain a chemical called metaldehyde, which is highly toxic to dogs. Are slug nematodes safe for dogs? Yes, they are. The nematodes will only infect slugs not pets or people, meaning they are entirely safe.  Shop slug nematodes When are dogs infected with lungworm? Slugs are about all year round, but are only really active once the soil reaches 5°C. The wet spring months in particular, bring slugs out in full force. The more slugs there are, the higher the risk of infection.   But I don’t see any slugs and snails in my garden There are 200 slugs in every cubic metre of soil. That means the average UK garden contains around 15,000 slugs! Some slugs are tiny (less than the size of a pea). They like to hide in the day and are most active at night, so even though you may not see them, you can guarantee they’re there. Pick up rocks and plant pots, dig down beneath the surface, or go out after dark and you’ll be sure to see them. Or simply look out or the tell-tale signs of hungry slugs on your plants. For more advice from Dr Vicky visit her site - https://www.drvictoriastrong.com/    

With temperatures set to rise here's a quick rundown of the controls you can use early in the season. Pest control at 15°C and belowThere are a handful of plant pests that it's a good idea to get ahead of right now, with some controls working from 5°C you stop them before they have a chance to get going.   The nematodes that control slugs and vine weevil can be applied as soon as the soil reaches 5°C.  Both of these pests will be active soon.  The slugs will be growing in numbers and the vine weevil grubs will be starting to feed so it is a good idea to get an application down asap.  These products can be used on the same areas, they will not interact with each other as they are pest specific. I spoke to a customer this week who already has aphids!  He is growing under glass but it's still very early.  Saying that it doesn't take long for greenhouses and polytunnels to warm up if we have lots of sunshine, so it is good to be vigilant.  There are a couple of aphid predators that are active at lower temperatures, ladybirds from 12°C and lacewings from 15°C. If you have had red spider mite before you will know that it takes hold really quickly in warm weather.  This is because the pest is often already there.  They overwinter and come out of 'hibernation' when temperatures reach 10°C.  Luckily our brilliant Amblyseius Andersoni are active from 6°C so you can head them off at the pass.  Introduce the sachets now before the spider mite has had a chance to stretch its legs! Shop Early Season Controls

It's a question I get asked a lot, in most people gardens slugs and snails go hand in hand and team up nicely to chomp on anything and everything. Nemaslug nematodes work brilliantly to drastically reduce slug numbers, they are applied to the soil and go to work killing slugs.  And that's the thing, they are in the soil.  Snails with their big old house on their back stay on the surface BUT slugs and snails will avoid areas that have been treated with Nemaslug.  The nematodes for slugs are still a natural predator of snails so the snails will avoid them. So if you have plants that you want to protect from slug and snails then Nemaslug nematodes are a great solution.  You may still have snails in your garden but they will avoid the areas that you have treated. Alternatively, we have another couple of options in our Slug and Snail Collection. These snails are demonstrating how much they dislike the nematodes applied to the border below this hedge! More nematode FAQ Shop nematodes

Are common garden slugs harmful to dogs? Slugs themselves aren't poisonous BUT they can spread a parasite called lungworm, a potentially deadly disease in dogs. Your dog can become infected by eating a slug.   Slugs can be tiny, and your dog may swallow them when eating grass or playing with a toy that has been left out in the garden.  Even their slime trails can be infectious. Vet, Dr Vicky Strong MRCVS explains: Adult lungworms live in the dog's heart and blood vessels.  They can cause lots of damage throughout the body and make the dog seriously ill.  Lungworm is often fatal. So how can you reduce slug numbers in your garden? There are many slug control treatments and contraptions on the market, some are dog or pet safe and others aren't.  Some are also far more effective than others.  Chemical based slug controls are not wildlife friendly and dogs should not be allowed on to treated areas immediately after they have been put applied. Dr Vicky Strong tells us: Pet owners need to be really careful when using traditional slug baits as many of them contain a chemical called metaldehyde.  Metaldehyde is extremely toxic to pets. Nematodes; dog safe and super effective Lots of people ask if nematodes are safe for dogs and the answer is ABSOLUTELY!  They are 100% biological and safe, and your dog can dig and play on treated areas immediately.  They are also extremely effective.  There are up to 95% more slugs in your garden than you ever see as the vast majority live underground.  Only nematodes will reach this part of the population and stop them making their way to the surface. Read more about nematodes... Shop for nematodes...

So you've planned your plot, read up on the best growing conditions and have a host of tips ready to deploy to make this year the best yet in your veg plot but have you made a plan for stopping the insects getting to your harvest before you do?  Here's a quick rundown of the pest you might come across and what you can do to stop them in their tracks. Aphids Crops affected - aphids love most edibles, you'll find them on Tomatoes, Carrots, Chillis, the list goes on... How to get rid of aphids - being quick off the mark is going to make things easier.  If you had an aphid problem last year then start spraying with a contact insecticide like Horticultural Soap or introduce predators just before you noticed the problem in previous years.  This could be any time from April on the whole. Aphid controls can be found here. Whitefly Crops affected - whitefly are typically found in glasshouses and polytunnels where they enjoy the warmth and light.  Whitefly attack brassicas, tomato plants, cucumbers and peppers. How to get rid of whitefly - use a contact based insecticide 3 times a week to get control of an infestation.  Use parasitic wasps, Encarsia Formosa once the temperature is consistently above 20°C. Whitefly controls can be found here. Caterpillars Crops affected - Caterpillars eat holes in your crops, especially brassicas.  Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, turnips, swede among others can be obliterated by hungry caterpillars. How to get rid of caterpillars - a mix of nematodes that are contained in the Fruit and Veg nematode pack can be used to control caterpillars, find them here. Root flies Crops affected - Cabbage, other brassicas and onions suffer from root damage from the larvae/maggots of these pests feeding.  They kill recently transplanted young plants and seedlings.  Many crops are made inedible from this family of pests.   How to get rid of root fly - nematodes contained in the Fruit and Veg product will clear these pests from the soil.  The mix of nematodes cover a wide range of fly larvae.  Find the product here. Slugs Crops affected - as we all know, slugs really aren't fussy and you will find holes and slimy trails all over your crops.  What you might not be immediately aware of is the damage being done underground.  Over 90% of the slugs in your garden/plot/patch are underground feeding on root material. How to get rid of slugs - use nematodes especially for slugs (Nemaslug) as soon as the soil temperature reaches 5°C and every 6 weeks throughout the growing season.  Find the nematodes here. There are a range of other pests including thrips, red spider mite and others that can chomp away on your tasty treats, if you have a pest you can't identify or would just like some advice email plantcare@ladybirdplantcare.co.uk.  If you are new to growing vegetables then the RHS and Gardeners World have some great advice to get you from seed to harvest.  Visit Shop

There's probably nothing more important than timing when it comes to being successful at ridding your plants and crops of pests.  In no particular order, here's why; Catching pests early means getting rid of them more easily Knowing when different pests are present throughout the year allows you to be vigilant Prevention is always better than cure so introduce preventative treatments as soon as the temperature allows Keep a note of when and on what you saw a pest, this will help you to prevent an outbreak next season Don't leave it too long between checks, some pests are very adept at hiding so check in nooks and crannies often Nematode applications work better (or are less time consuming) on wet days Some natural predators need warmth and light to be most effective, they should only be used in these conditions which may mean using a different control until spring Many pests are most devastating when plants are young, up your pest checks in sowing and growing seasons Some pests, particularly lawn pests can only be treated in the late summer/autumn, if you have a problem in the spring its the following autumn that your need to water in the nematodes Act fast, order your biological control or contact us for advice asap and while you are waiting for the predators to arrive remove as many pests as possible by hand, through damping down or with Soft Soap  Want to keep on top of pests this year?  Sign up to our emails (at the bottom of the page) for timely updates and pest focussed newsletters.  

Did you suffer a pest infestation this year?  If the answer is yes then there are things you can do now to help prevent this happening gain.  This post covers good hygiene. Deep clean now to reduce pest numbers throughout the year, it's really important to make sure you are not allowing pests to overwinter and cause you problems in when it warms up... Clean and Tidy Clean up old crops and dead foliage, rotten plant matter is where pests and diseases thrive Empty and clean pots that aren't in use anymore Lift or move all pots to uncover slugs Wash greenhouse glass (or polytunnel plastic) to allow winter light in and to remove any lingering pests Give your glasshouse a really thorough sweep out and clean.  For some great advice from the RHS click here Crevices, ledges, grooves, joins, nooks and crannies.  These are your nemesis, get a suitable tool and some warm soap water and go to work.  This is where the pests are biding their time ready to attack! Shop the Autumn Clean Up Range