Red pruning scissors for trimming and pruning houseplants and flowers.

Strong comfortable grip for harder and tougher stems.

Safety metal clip at base to keep scissors closed when not in use

Predatory mite for the treatment of Red Spider Mite

Bulk tubes provide an immediate dose of mites, offering immediate protection to your plants.  Available as loose material in cardboard tubes containing 25,000 mites, this will provide one application.  If you are looking for a longer term solution then the slow release sachets are a great product.

Spider Mites are less than 1mm in size and difficult to see without a lens or microscope unless you have very sharp eyes. They often live underneath leaves, and are only active when it is warm. In winter they hibernate either as eggs, or inactive newborns which you can often spot as tiny red or orange shiny dots.

These tiny, highly destructive pests are common in greenhouses and on house plants and can also be found on outdoor plants during the warmer summer months. In the greenhouse look out for them on citrus, tomatoes, cucumbers, melons, vines, carnations and chrysanthemums. Outdoors, you may find them on daylilies, gladioli, conifers and many tender plants. 

Spider mites can be spotted more easily by looking for the damage than looking for the culprits. They pierce the leaf cells with their mouthparts and suck the plant juices resulting in discolouration of the leaves and sickly looking growth, and in worst cases the death of the plant. The leaf damage initially results in a fine speckling effect on leaves where the cells have died. The pattern of the mottling varies from plant to plant, so on strawberries you will see brown spots on the underside, and in citrus these develop into yellow patches throughout the leaf. On some plants with tougher leaves the spider mite eats young growth and flower buds and may be even more difficult to spot.

In the early summer it is a good idea to inspect vulnerable plants every week and deal with the first signs of mite infestation immediately. Where possible, remove infested leaves, buds and stems because this will initially reduce numbers. If there is any part of the plant which is covered in cobwebs then regrettably it will need to be sacrificed as it will not recover. Spider mites prefer dry environments, so spraying the infested areas of a plant with water and damping the greenhouse floor areas will raise the humidity and hopefully slow the infestation rate.

When the infestation becomes advanced, fine webbing appears on new growth. Spider mites are arachnids (spiders) and can spin very extensive fine webs. The webbing acts to shield the colony like a blanket, and it also provides a series of ladders or netting which allow the mites to crawl from stem to stem. Where webbing is widespread the leaves will typically turn brown and drop off because of the extent of the cell damage. 

For serious infestations we suggest Phytoseiulus.

Phytoseiulus is the number one method for controlling glasshouse red spider mite, and is widely used by both amateur gardeners and commercial growers.

This species is a highly active hunter and has become a standard spider mite treatment in many crops. It develops twice as fast as the spider mite at humidity levels that are above 60% (unfavourable to spider mites, favourable to Phytoseiulus), which allows a rapid control of outbreaks.

A female Phytoseiulus can destroy ten spider mite females and their young in just seven days under optimum conditions. The tube holds living predator mites hidden in a bran carrier. You may not be able to see anything but the carrier as the mites are very hard to see with the naked eye. The tubes contain approximately 2,000 mites.  

Orders placed by 10am Monday will be despatched later in the week.

This is a great product for protecting your plants from a range of bugs and pests.

This is effectively an environmentally friendly pesticide made from natural ingredients which is totally biodegradable. It has a three-way benefits. It controls mildew and other fungal infections. It acts as a foliar feed to strengthen plant growth. It attacks a wide variety of insects on contact, simply by gumming up their wings and breathing tubes.

The 250ml bottle goes a long way - it will dilute 10 to 1 to make up 25 litres of solution. 

Use SBI to control and reduce delicate sap-feeding pests including:
Aphid (multiple species), whitefly, spider mite, mealybugs, hard scale, soft scale, bay sucker psyllids, and powdery mildew.  To gain control you will need to use it every other day for a week or so.

Once pest numbers are under control, try to use it almost every other week and wet the plant thoroughly including the undersides of leaves where the aphids and crawlers like to lurk. Repeat applications are necessary because it works by "suffocating" the smaller insects and there will always be the danger of more hatching out or flying in to replace them. You can even "dunk" small plants upside-down in SBI if the aphids are hiding in the flower buds.

SB Plant Invigorator is:

• A unique blend of plant safe, physical pest control surfactants
• A physical mode of action to control pests and powdery mildew
• Suitable for use on edible and ornamental crops
• Has no harvest interval meaning you do not need to wait before eating your edibles.
• Suitable for use throughout the year
• Will not harm beneficial insects when used at the recommended rates

Indoors this nasty pest can be present all year round, as temperatures and hours of daylight rise you may find bigger infestations and problems outdoors.

You can treat scale with nematodes, solution is sprayed on to the leaves of affected plants.  The nematodes 'swim' on the film of water allowing them to enter the scale insect and kill them. 

The temperature must be above 14°C for treatment to work and you must follow the steps below carefully but this provides a really great way of controlling scale.  You can red the full instructions for the nematodes HERE.

These mites are one of the most effective controls for sciarid fly larvae.

Mobile predatory mites that feed on sciarid fly larvae and other 'soil' pests including thrips pupae and root mealybug. Adults are reported to live for several months and survive up to 50 days without food, making them ideal in situations of very low pest populations. At night they move a short distance up, on to the plant foliage and will feed on mealybug and other soft bodied prey. Mites are very mobile and soon distribute themselves throughout the crop.

Sold in 2 sizes.  Orders placed by 10am Monday will be despatched later in the week.

Thrips Prevention - Thrips are very difficult to reach with chemical sprays but Amblyseius predator mites are small enough to find and eat them, release early as they control the first stages of the Thrips lifecycle.

Use indoors, all year round.

Use outside, introduce the Amblyseius in mid-May, or earlier where temperatures are constantly warm. Amblyseius will survive on pollen from flowers until the young thrips start to appear and provide them with a preferred diet, thus preventing an infestation from taking hold.

This product should be used in prevention of an outbreak so either around the time that you normally see Thrips or at the very first sign that they are present. If you already have a Thrips problem then please check out our other products for Thrips as you will need something that also controls the adult stage.

Biological controls are not always kept in stock, they are ordered in fresh.  This can sometimes lead to a time lag between when you place the order and when it is despatched.  Order by 10am Monday for same week despatch.

Amblyseius Andersoni is primarily used to prevent and treat Fuchsia Gall Mite.   It's an excellent product for catching the mites as they comes out of hibernation in the early spring.  DO NOT ORDER THIS PRODUCT IS YOU ALREADY HAVE A GALL MITE INFESTATION, SEE ADVICE BELOW.

The sachets contain a breeding colony of mites that crawl out slowly over a period of 4-6 weeks stopping an infestation from taking hold.  If you already have the pest in large numbers please cut the worst of the infestation away before introducing the predators.

These predatory mites are widely used in commercial glasshouses to control unwanted plant pests.  Amblyseius Andersoni is used to treat different species of Red Spider Mite (Tetranychus spp. and Panonychus spp.) Fuchsia Gall Mites, Pear Blister Mites, Rust Mites  and Thrips, it can tolerate a wide range of high and low temperatures 6°C to 40°C, making it a great early season control. 

If you have left it a bit long for the slow release to get on top of the population, if a pest population is already established it will be difficult for Amblyseius species to gain effective control quickly. Species such as Phytoseiulus stand a better chance at bringing about a curative control due to the species ability to move easily across the webbing structure.  You can find that product here.

Amblyseius Andersoni is primarily used to prevent a spider mite infestation (especially in houseplants) or as an out of season control rather than as a solution for a bad infestation.   It's an excellent product for catching the spider mites as they come out of hibernation in the early spring.  

The sachets contain a breeding colony of mites that crawl out slowly over a period of 4-6 weeks stopping an infestation from taking hold.  If you already have spider mites in large numbers please use Phytoseiulus first.

These predatory mites are widely used in commercial glasshouses to control unwanted plant pests.  Amblyseius Andersoni is used to treat different species of Red Spider Mite (Tetranychus spp. and Panonychus spp.) Fuchsia Gall Mites, Pear Blister Mites, Rust Mites, Boxus Mite and Thrips, it can tolerate a wide range of high and low temperatures 6°C to 40°C, making it a great early season control. 

Thrips Prevention - Thrips are very difficult to reach with chemical sprays but Amblyseius predator mites are small enough to find and eat them, release early as they control the first stages of the Thrips lifecycle.

These sachets contain a breeding colony of mites that crawl out slowly over a 4-6 week period and attack the larvae and pupae stages of Thrips.  You can read the instructions for use HERE.

Inside the sachets can be used all year round and pose no risk to pets or humans.

Outside, for best results, introduce the Amblyseius in mid-May for frost-free glasshouses, or earlier where temperatures are constantly warm. Amblyseius will survive on pollen from flowers until the young thrips start to appear and provide them with a preferred diet, thus preventing an infestation from taking hold.

This product should be used in prevention of an outbreak so either around the time that you normally see Thrips or at the very first sign that they are present. If you already have a Thrips problem then please check out our other products for Thrips as you will need something that also controls the adult stage.

Nemaslug or alternative

Treats 40 sqm - use when soil temperature is above 5°C.  This is a great alternative to Nemaslug, it works in exactly the same way.

We supply packs of microscopic beneficial nematodes, Phasmarhabditis californica, (eelworms) which are watered into pots or open ground.  This is a perishable product, do not buy in advance.

You can read the application instructions HERE.

Slugs eat leaves, stems and roots of plants, weakening them and often causing them to die.

They leave slimy trails over plants and soil, and are particularly devastating to seedlings and cuttings. Slugs leave their own individual scent trails so they can find their way home. There are other creatures (like caterpillars) who make big holes in leaves, but if you see the tell-tale slime, then slugs are the culprit!

Slugs come in many shapes and sizes and are commonplace around the garden, particularly in damp conditions.

Infestations are less serious in dry weather but tend to become a problem during prolonged rainy weather. An individual grey field slug has the potential to produce 90,000 grandchildren and has approximately 27,000 teeth!

They live underground during the day, emerging at night to feed. One cubic metre of garden will on average contain up to 200 slugs.

We supply packs of microscopic beneficial nematodes, Phasmarhabditis hermaphrodita, which are watered into pots or open ground with a watering can or hose. They enter the slug through a hole in its back while it is underground and poison it so that it will die within a few days underground, out of sight. 

Nemaslug or alternative

These nematodes can be used once your soil temperature is above 5°C.  Check your soil temperature here. Do not buy nematodes more than a week before application.

We supply packs of microscopic beneficial nematodes (eelworms) which are watered into pots or open ground.  Use as soon as soil temperature reach 5°C and every 6 weeks to keep slugs at bay.  This pack treats 100 sqm.  Click here for 40 sqm

Nemaslug or alternative

Slug nematodes can be used once your soil temperature is above 5°C.  Check your soil temperature here. Do not buy nematodes more than a week before application.

We supply packs of microscopic beneficial nematodes (eelworms) which are watered into pots or open ground. You can read the application instructions HERE.

Use as soon as soil temperature reach 5°C and every 6 weeks to keep slugs at bay. This pack treats 40 sqm.  You can order individual packs or multiple packs delivered at 6 week intervals.  Click here for 100 sqm.

Got a question about using nematodes?  You may find the answer here

Traps are a great way to find out what pests are present on your plants and can trap a good quantity of flying and crawling pests.

Sold in packs of 5.

Sticky traps are a great way of monitoring and reducing pest numbers. 

Yellow catch aphids, whitefly, leafminers, fungus gnats and more.   The yellow trap are eco friendly card traps.

Blue traps are great for thrips.

Red traps for monitoring and controlling leafhoppers.

The book your houseplants want you to read.Written by The Plant Rescuer, Sarah Gerrard-Jones.

This book is a clear and practical guide for all aspects of house plants. From how to care for them to choosing the right plant for your space. It easy to follow guides will help you identify changes in your plant's appearance and how to save them. Learn how to help your plants not only survive but thrive. Sarah, also known as @theplantrescuer, is a self-taught houseplant obsessive who firmly believes every plant deserves a happy life. Her determination to see beyond the 'perfect plant' and to rescue unloved plants makes her the go-to guide.

Struggle with watering your plants? This soil checker gives you clarity. Simply poke it into your pot to retrieve a small soil sample at different depths. Moist soil means wait longer to water; dry soil means it’s time to give your plant a drink. -Easy to Use: Takes the guesswork out of watering. Check soil moisture before reaching for the watering can. -Made of Wood: A sustainable option, lightweight and durable with a varnished finish for easy cleaning. -Prevent Root Rot: Keep your nails clean and manage your watering schedule better. No more unnoticed water layers at the bottom of your pot. How to Use: Gently push the soil checker to the bottom of your pot, turn it a quarter turn, and pull it out. Check the trapped soil for moisture. Each test also aerates the soil, creating beneficial air pockets. If the soil is compacted, soak it thoroughly before using the probe. Hand-milled from wood: Varnished for durability.

Total Size: 31 cm / 12" long, handle 5 cm / 2" wide.

Vine Weevil nematodes are watered into pots or open ground with a watering can or hose, killing the vine weevil grubs.

Use as soon as the soil temperature reaches 5°C.  The parasitic nematodes enter the grub, poisoning it and then feeding off it to increase their numbers.

Sold in 2 sizes.

Biological controls are not always kept in stock, they are ordered in fresh.  This can sometimes lead to a time lag between when you place the order and when it is despatched.  Order by 10am Monday for same week despatch.

NB This predator is only active at temperatures in excess of 18-20°C

The most effective treatment for whitefly is the parasite "Encarsia". It is supplied on small cards which can be hung up around your plants.  You can read the instructions for this product HERE.

Biological controls are not always kept in stock, they are ordered in fresh.  This can sometimes lead to a time lag between when you place the order and when it is despatched.  Order by 10am Monday for same week despatch.

Glasshouse whitefly are small white flying insects which lay eggs on the undersides of leaves. Whiteflies suck sap from their host plant and drop sticky secretions onto leaves below. Left uncontrolled they will overwhelm the plant, weakening it and flying around in huge numbers. Undersides of leaves become populated with Whiteflies adults and white eggs (scales).

Whitefly are fairly inactive in cool temperatures over Winter, but multiply very quickly in warm Spring and Summer weather. They fly about at the slightest disturbance, like tiny moths, and may even create ghostly white clouds in the air.

Instructions for use

Encarsia works best with temperatures above 21°C but prefer cool glasshouse conditions below 25°C with 12hr+ daylight hours. Generally, this means introducing Encarsia from mid March to August, although it can be earlier or later with extra heat and light.

Hang cards on lower branches so that they may be in a slightly shady position.

5 cards should give good control for an average conservatory or small greenhouse. If you have a longstanding battle with whitefly follow up the initial treatment with a second introduction one weeks later.  If you have a low lever of whitefly or are using Encarsia as a preventative method then application can be every 2 weeks.

Identifying Whitefly

Remember whiteflies are nearly always moving. If you see white threads static on tops of the leaves, they are not whitefly but something else - very likely to be shed aphid skins dropped down from developing Aphid under leaves above. Or they could be thrips larvae. They are not "whitefly" unless body and wings are a ghostly white.

The glasshouse whitefly (Trialeurodes vaporariorum)is the most common. You can recognise them by their heart-shape profile when looked from above. Tobacco whitefly (Bemisia tabaci) have parallel wings which are longer, and when folded you can still see a strip of their back between the wings. There are up to 50 different species of whitefly in Europe, but from a gardeners point of view they are all plant pests. 

Although Encarsia is very effective for the common glasshouse whitefly, it doesn't work so well for tobacco whitefly. It's therefore worth trying to identify what whitefly you have before treating. If you need any help identifying the whitefly you have then please don't hesitate to contact us.